{ yippee }

Booked and paid - we're back to Japan in 2 months time!

Have you seen Jetstar's 2 for 1 special to Japan? A word of advice for Sydney-siders - even though their website only lists Osaka on the special from Sydney, select Sydney-Tokyo and they just add Sydney-Gold Coast to the selection, don't be put off if you want to go to Tokyo. Or do what we're doing, fly into Tokyo and out of Osaka (but you have to ring and do that over the phone).

Now, just have to work out where else beside Tokyo we'll spend our time.


(Mmm, Casual Frozen Food - just noticed what this vending machine says. Wish I'd tried it!)

{ making stamps }

I spent a lovely couple of hours yesterday afternoon in a nook of the Hondrake Japanese book store on Kent St. It was a fabulous location for my introduction to the craft of stamp making.

I'm holidays at the moment so when I saw this workshop on the very talented Riyo's blog, I thought why not? So wonderful to be able to do something like this during the week.

Riyo moved from Japan 2 years ago, in part to be inspired creatively by a different country. I was amazed - all I want to do is move to Japan as it's such a mecca for much of the craft I like (not to mention this, this, this, this, and so much more but I'm probably boring you now with all these links), and here's someone moving from Japan to Australia!!

I started really basic with my first stamp making a tree. It was in two parts but as you can see below, two really basic parts! The camera was a little trickier and the button was just at the end to use up a small piece.



We finished the afternoon with some homemade deserts. Unfortunately I didn't take my camera with me so go to this post of Riyo's to see the amazing green tea cheesecake! Apparently all workshops of this style in Japan finish with some sweet goodies like this.

Apart from me, all the participants were Japanese and reflecting later in the afternoon I realised how much I loved being part of something where I was totally included and part of something but also like I was a fly on the wall observing at the times they conversed between themselves in Japanese - I loved it! I often feel like that when I visit non-English speaking countries and it was so wonderful to experience similar right in my own backyard.

Just to round out my Japanese afternoon, I stopped by Kinokuniya as they have 20% off all craft books in February. This includes Japanese craft books as well. On 27 February they're holding the Kino Craft Fair from 12-4pm. I'll definitely be going along, hope to see you there!

{ new book }

At some point I'll move on from my current Japan obsession, but until then here's a book I made out of a manga comic picked up over there:

{ whirlwind japan trip day 4 }

The pace of the last few days caught up with me a bit on our final day and I really didn’t get as much done as I could have. A later start today with a group of us heading to Shinjuku for some retail therapy and lunch.

I left the group after lunch to head to Okadaya again and thankfully the sign on the shutters yesterday must have said closed for that day only because, thankfully, all was a go today.


I was pretty restrained as I had purchased so much fabric just 2 months prior but still managed to come away with 10 metres of fabric. This time it’s not all for me as a friend sews beautiful clothes for her daughter so I picked up a small selection of fabrics for them to play with. It’s fun trying to find prints you think others will like, but I felt a certain degree of self-imposed pressure too - I hope they like them. Oh well, even if not the thought was there!

Really should then have set out for Fabric Town but I was too tired and headed back to the hotel for a brief time before heading for the airport and on the overnight flight home. We were very spoilt by JAL and were treated to Business Class on our return. A quick shower at home on arrival and straight back to the office - did the last 4 days really happen???


A random photo, but how awesome is this guys hair?! I'm pretty sure if I stood next to him, his hair alone would be taller than me.

{ whirlwind japan trip day 3 }

Today was my designated shopping day. I started in Harajuku, with mixed success on my list:

CROSS - Harajuku girls (I think they’ve moved to somewhere else for their Sunday showings)

CROSS - Kit Kats in awesome glass jars in vending machines as I found in this area last trip

TICK - great purchases at the MOMA Design Store and Kiddyland

TICK - delicious lunch at the hole in the wall restaurant we found last trip.



Then to Shibuya for stationary purchases at Loft and clothes, stationary and storage purchases at Muji (am I the only person who comes home from trips with storage contaniners for in the bathroom cabinets at home??).

Finally to Shinjuku for paper and stationary purchases at Tokyu Hands, craft book looking but no purchases at Kinokuniya, a special request purchased in heavy metal CD heaven at Disc Union and finally time for Okadaya fabric store.

Unfortunately shutters down and a sign on them that of course I couldn’t understand! Most stores are open on Sundays, in fact if they’re going to close it’s more likely a Monday they do so, so I was worried the sign was saying the store had closed for good.

Back to the hotel for a gorgeous hosted dinner. The 2 hotels we stayed at on this trip really went above and beyond in looking after us. If your budget can stretch to it, I can highly recommend the ANA Intercontinental and The Strings Intercontinental.


And finally,

TICK - karaoke!!

{ whirlwind Japan trip day 2 }

DAY 2: A choice of tours had been arranged for day 2 of our trip. As I was a very last minute ring-in to replace a colleague, I had to do the tour he selected which was a day trip to Mt Fuji-Hakone. I don't mind organised tours but I tend to prefer half day ones as the full day ones can be pretty exhausting.

This one started at 8am and we didn't return until about 7.15pm so certainly a full day.


In the bus first off and a couple of hours on the road to the visitors centre for a quick stop and then on to Station 5 which I think is the highest you can drive to.

The best time to see Mt Fuji is in the winter as most of the rest of the year it's covered in cloud - or being shy as our guide said. Here's the view we had:


Mmmm...I promise the top of the mountain is there somewhere! We had a little bit of snow where we got off for a quick wander around the gift shops and some snacks to warm us up:


Back in the bus and down the mountain for lunch:


Back in the bus and off to the lake, through another gift shop and onto a boat for a very quick 15 min cruise up to another area. Past some more gift shops (yes, a theme appearing here) and up into a gondola thing up another mountain (not Mt Fuji). Unfortunately not the best day for this type of mountaintop viewing:


A quick turnaround and back down the mountain where we luckily had another 30 mins or so to wander the gift shops - hooray!

Back in the bus and onto a nearby town to catch the Shinkansen train (bullet train, but the local one, not the SUPER fast one - although that did zoom through the station while we were there and it was incredibly FAST!).

A super quick change of clothes and off to another hotel for site inspection and hosted dinner. We had planned on hitting karaoke after dinner but were all too tired from the day.

Phew - exhausted!

{ things I love about Japan #7.2 }

PART 3 OF FABRIC SHOPPING
TOKYO

My hotel was in Shinjuku and very conveniently located between the hotel and the train station was the wonderful Okadaya. This is a great store for linen and cotton fabrics. They also stocked Echino. Okadaya has a number of floors (maybe 4?) but the more everyday fabrics on the upper levels weren’t of the ‘crafty’ nature I was after.

In front of the fabric store is another Okadaya and this one is about 5 or 6 floors high full of all different crafts - bag making, beads, buttons, embroidery, wool, etc. The top floor has a great collection of books and magazines. I remember spending the last hours of my previous trip pouring over the books here.


Through my research, I’d come to hear of Tomato and by all accounts this is a biggie! I suspect I picked the worst time to go - Saturday morning - as it was packed and took away from the enjoyment a bit for me unfortunately. I’ve read this store only takes cash so I came prepared in that regard.

One of the challenges/enjoyments of different cultures is working out the basics, like how do I buy this? I can help you here - at Tomato you have to pay on each floor and you queue first to have your fabric cut and then proceed to another queue for the cashier!


Tomato is about 5 floors high and every one of those floors is packed with fabric! Come prepared - I suggest trying a weekday, perhaps that would be quieter, and take snacks and water as you’ll probably be there ages!

Something I hadn’t seen elsewhere was the use of the same design but on different types of fabric. So you would buy the same design in normal cotton fabric, then on an upper level you’ll come across it in a laminated version (I guess you would use it for table cloths, bags, aprons, etc) and then on another rlevel it will be in the light weight fabric used for handy shopping bags that fold down small enough to sit at the bottom of you handbag for unexpected purchase (do you know the ones I mean?). Ingenious!

Tomato is in an area of Tokyo called Fabric Town and around are lots of other fabric stores but I didn’t get time for them this visit.

So to prices. I didn’t find much variation between stores or even between Tokyo and Kyoto. From this I think I did the right thing by just buying what I liked when I saw it and not running around trying find cheaper prices - too much stress, too time consuming and ultimately not worth it, in my opinion. Prices ranged from JPY380 per metre to JPY1365 for the fabrics I was buying which were cotton, or cotton/linen blends. The JPY1365 fabrics were the Echino and at the time that was approx AUD22 per metre (AUD1 = JPY62, unfortunately a bad time for the dollar against the Yen when we were there this trip).


DIRECTIONS

OKADAYA, Shinjuku: Take the East exit of Shinjuku Station. As you exit you’ll see a massive TV screen on the Alta department store. Head to the left of this and then look down the first alley to your left and you’ll see the outside tables with discount fabrics. Head inside for more wonderful goodies!

TOMATO, Nippori: Take the Yamanote line to Nippori Station. From the platform follow the North Exit signs. At the gate you’ll then see signs for the East Exit, take this. Take the 3rd pedestrian crossing on your left and the street Nippori Chuo Dori will be on the left of the shop ahead of you. After about a block you’ll start to see banners for “’Fabric Town’ hanging from the light posts. Tomato is on the left hand side as you walk down this street.

{ things I love about Japan #7.1 }

PART 2 OF FABRIC SHOPPING

KYOTO

I started my fabric buying in Kyoto in a shop called Nomura Tailor. I really only hit 1 store, well 2 outlets of the same store. Walking down a shopping mall area I saw from the corner of my eye some bolts of Echino fabric - I was so excited because this fabric was top of my list so I was so excited to come across it.

The shop was a treasure trove of fantastic fabrics. I had to send my husband away for an hour so I could wander without distraction. Luckily there were some nearby CD stores so I didn’t have to twist his arm.


That hour is a bit of a blur now, just images in my mind of carrying bolt after bolt to the counter and walking away with a bag full of fabric. As it was my first store, I didn’t know if I should buy up big because I wouldn’t find the same fabrics elsewhere or if I should look around to check if prices differed. As it was I went somewhere in between that first night.

Of course the next day as we were sightseeing my mind was back at the shop wondering if I should get some more fabrics or wait until Tokyo. Decisions, decisions.

That night I found the 2nd outlet while wandering so I felt my decision was made - I better check this shop out too and it would be remiss not to come away with a little bit of fabric, right? This shop was the larger of the two with an upstairs for haberdashery, books, etc.


DIRECTIONS

NOMURA TAILOR, Kyoto: Shop 1. The Shin-kyogoku Shopping Arcade is 2 under cover streets running parallel to each other in the main shopping area of Kyoto. If you stand on Shijo dori, facing the entrances it’s on the arcade on your left. Walking up the arcade Nomura Tailor on your left hand side.

NOMURA TAILOR, Kyoto: Shop 2. Come back down the Shin-kyogoku Shopping Arcade back to Shijo dori and turn right at the end, this other outlet of Nomura Tailor will be on your right (on Shijo Dori).

{ things I love about Japan #7 }

FABRIC SHOPPING

Fabric - a new obsession for me. I’ve always loved fabric and coming from a ex-fashion teacher/now avid quilter-mother, there has always been fabric and sewing in my life. I did study fashion until the end of school but haven’t really made much since then. And ‘then’ is suddenly a long time - as the invite this year to my 20 year school reunion testifies, yikes!

Anyway, I digress….I’ve been looking, obsessing and fantasizing about lots of the beautiful fabrics I’ve seen lately but didn’t know what I would do with it so have held off buying.

When I came across a tutorial for making fabric covers for notebooks I knew I had finally found a way to justify buying some fabric!

I knew then this trip to Japan was going to have a heavy focus on fabric buying. I did quite a bit of online research before leaving and had a list of places to visit.

I came home with 34 metres of fabric! Jetstar was as enthusiastic about my purchases in Japan as I was so I ended up carry most of the fabric as carry-on to avoid excess baggage fees. I don’t like travelling with heaps of carry-ons but making the exception this time was totally worth it.


Coming up - posts on my fabric shopping expeditions in Kyoto and Tokyo, stay tuned!

{ things I love about Japan #6 }

VENDING MACHINES


They're everywhere! We tried most days to buy at least one thing were we had no idea what we were getting. Most were hits.

I'm not sure how Tommy Lee Jones fits into the picture here, but it reminds me of Bill Murray's character in Lost in Translation and also Vincent Chase on Entourage - don't worry if it doesn't make any sense, take the photos, get the cash and no one will ever see it right???

My favourite vending machine purchase was this one:


Thought we were getting a Kit Kat flavoured milk drink, but no it was the most over packaged purchase I have ever made! Four baby Kit Kat's in a glass jar:


Well the Kit Kat's were yummy of course, but the best bit is the jar - so awesome! It now holds all the loose buttons I had lying around. So, it might have been a ridiculous amount of packaging for a couple of baby Kit Kat's, but it's actually extremely handy.

The only downer to the vending machines was that Coca Cola seems to be the drink of choice - not great for a Pepsi fan, but there was thrill in the chase and each Pepsi tasted even better because I had to work for it!

{ things I love about Japan #4 }

CRAFT BOOKS



They’re so beautifully styled and very inspiring. I just wish I could read Japanese or they had English versions!

Good shop for craft books is the Kinokuniya outlet in Shinjuku. Actually, there are 2 outlets there, the one I found to have the best selection was near Tokyu Hands. Go to 2F and when you alight from the escalator the craft section is to your left.



DIRECTIONS

SHINJUKU (outlet near Tokyu Hands) : The closest exit would be the New South Exit I believe however I always get lost going that way so my directions are probably the long way! Take the East Exit and at the exit turn hard right, walking along the side of the building. After the department store ends you’ll pass the Kirin Beer Pub and then Gap, both on your right. Next on your right is a large set of stairs which takes you up and into the station eventually. Ahead will be an underpass, take this and continue straight, you’ll pass a Uniqlo outlet and then the next main building is the Takashimaya department store. Walk alongside the store and at the end you’ll see Kinokuniya across the road to your left.

{ things I love about Japan #3 }

TOKYO SUBWAY



I admit, the rail system can be pretty confusing but once you get a vague understanding you’re off! Besides its immense size, and sheer number of rail companies the system is really faultless - efficient + clean.

Some personal favourite subway moments:

* English information on board for every station - what lines intersect with each station, which side of the train the doors will open on, what the next stop is, what line you’re on, etc

* Heaters in the seats. So great on a cold day, not sure if they’re cooled in summer but I wouldn’t be surprised.

* Route finders - not in all stations we but we made great use of the one in Shinjuku. It’s a touch screen monitor and you type in where you are going from and to and it will give you a selection of routes on the screen. Select the one that suits best and print it out to take with you. It gives you departure time, rail company, platform number and price!

* Okay time for my favourite! Besides the information above, the voiceovers tell you to ‘not talk on your mobile phone near the restricted seats (for the elderly, pregnant, less mobile, etc), turn your phone to silent and refrain from talking on the phone on the train at all’.



Absolute bliss! In 10 days I recall hearing 2 mobile phones ringing and only once on public transport and when the phone did ring the owner nearly jumped out of their skin with embarrassment. Not once did we have to sit through someone telling someone their most intimate secrets at the top of their lungs.

Don’t imagine that phones weren’t being used, quite the contrary as I think we were practically the only ones not texting or playing a game. It’s just that everyone has a great respect for others and culturally putting others before yourself is the norm so disrupting other people is frowned upon.

A note for those using a Japan Rail Pass - you can use your pass on all JR trains within Tokyo, not just to get around Japan as a whole. There were only a couple of trips we used other rail networks and therefore had to buy tickets. The Pass can also be used between Narita Airport and the city (approx JPY3500 which was about AUD55 when we were there if you buy it as a stand alone ticket).

{ things I love about Japan #2 }

DESIGNATED SMOKING AREAS

Not only do they have designated smoking areas but people actually use them! No walking down the street through clouds of the smoke from workers standing outside every building or inhaling smoke every breath as you walk behind someone smoking (both these things I HATE and have to endure every work day).

The streets are also free of cigarette butts - beautiful!

{ things I love about Japan #1 }

PAPER + STATIONARY SHOPPING

Japan is of course home to beautiful Chiyogami papers. In Tokyo, Tokyu Hands in Shinjuku has a nice little selection and the prices are very good. The Chiyogami papers can be found on the stationary level, on the back wall about half way along.

If you love stationary, you really need to set yourself some time to wander this whole floor - it’s full of things you need and want and plenty more that you didn’t even know you wanted! It’s a pen enthusiasts dream come true as well.

I also went to the Tokyu Hands in Shibuya but didn’t find that as good as the Shinjuku store. There are about 7 floors to this ‘Creative Life Store’ with pretty much everything you could ever want - furniture, hardware, homewares, luggage, craft supplies, and on and on….

Loft is another great store for stationary. The store in Shibuya is wonderful with the ground floor full of beautiful diaries, pens, folders, bags, stamps, stickers, cards, etc. I’m not sure if this happens throughout the year in Japan or not, but being there in March I thought I had missed the opportunity for a diary. No, they have them starting in March - Spring diaries! They truly think of everything!

Ito-ya is a huge stationary store in Ginza. The main shop (building 1) is 8 floors of stationary, office supplies and a small but beautiful selection of Chiyogami and other traditional Japanese papers. Building 2 is out the back and stocks scrapbooking supplies.

Kyoto has a lovely area with a number of Chiyogami stores. Many artisans set up shops near Kyoto Imperial Palace and some remain there to this day. I don’t have the names of the shops but wander along Teramachi and you’ll come to them.

Kyoto also has a great Loft store.




DIRECTIONS

TOKYU HANDS, SHINJUKU: The closest exit would be the New South Exit I believe however I always get lost going that way so my directions are probably the long way! Take the East Exit and at the exit turn hard right, walking along the side of the building. After the department store ends you’ll pass the Kirin Beer Pub and then Gap, both on your right. Next on your right is a large set of stairs which takes you up and into the station eventually. Ahead will be an underpass, take this and continue straight, you’ll pass a Uniqlo outlet and then the next main building is the Takashimaya department store. Tokyu Hands is at the back of this store. Either take the outside escalater that you will see at the entrance and at the top walk left all the way to the end - this is an outside walkway. You can also access by walking inside and upstairs within Takeshimaya.

ITO-YA, GINZA: It’s on the main shopping thoroughfare in Ginza - Ginza Dori/Chuo Dori near the Matsuya department store. There’s a big red paperclip hanging off the building!

LOFT, SHIBUYA: At JR Shibuya station take the Hachiko Exit. This will bring you out at the main crossing with Starbucks ahead of you (by the way, recommend a quick stop here on the 2nd floor for a fantastic view of the main crossing - sounds like and odd thing to look at but it’s amazing at rush hour, you’ve never seen such a mass of people!). Anyway, take the road to the left of Starbucks as you’re facing it and Loft is in between the Seibu stores A and B. Look for the large yellow sign with ‘Loft’ in black.

LOFT KYOTO: Sorry, I didn’t take down the street name for Loft, but starting from Shijo, walk up the Shin-kyogoku Shopping Arcade and down one of the laneways you’ll see the distinctive yellow and black sign.

KYOTO: There’s a number of paper shops on Teramachi, between Nijo and Takeyamachi